Old Fashioned Ways

The Archer
Originally uploaded by malias.

As a diehard geek with many years working in the front line of innovation I love to embrace new ways of tackling old tasks. However, one annoying trend that’s becoming standard practice at this time of year is the Dear-everybody-in-my-entire-address-book (most of whom I don’t even remember) merry Christmas/happy New Year email.

In two minutes and a single click you can write a message to everyone you’ve known in the last 15 years. Why even bother? I hark back to those leisurely pre-web days when we hand wrote seasonal cards one by one with a unique message for each person. And when you received one it actually meant something.

Call me a luddite but some things at least were done better in the olden days before the internet. Just don’t get me started on the Spinning Jenny.

Montmartre as you've never seen it (probably)

Montmartre is one of the first destinations for any visitor of Paris. From the steps of Sacre Coeur you get a breathtaking view of the whole of Paris and in the winding streets in the adjoining neighbourhood once frequented by Van Gogh, Renoir and Toulouse Latrec amongst many others you feel the history and charm of Paris’ best loved neighbourhood.

However, one of the big problems is that Montmartre is a victim of its own success. Turn up on any evening and the place is flooded with tourists from all over the world. On the Place du Tetre it’s heaving, from behind their easels portrait artists hound passers-by, the over priced cafes are bursting at the seams and the sound of clicking camera equipment never ceases.

I was surprised when one Saturday afternoon in autumn I received a phone call from my friend Igor inviting me to join him on a walk around Montmartre at 8am on Sunday morning. My first reaction was “you must be crazy”, but he was very persistant and eventually I reluctantly agreed.

Here is the astonishing thing, at 8am Montmartre is a completely different place, a place that few tourists chance to see. It’s deserted and you have virtually the whole area to yourself. You can walk along those lovely streets unmolested. In the place du Tetre life is just beginning to stir. The cafes are setting up and the portrait artists are just emerging from wherever portrait artists emerge from. You might want to sit a while as the first customer and enjoy (a still overpriced) coffee and take in the scene. It’s a real treat but get out of there by 9am when the hordes start to arrive.

Shakespeare bookshop Paris tea party

A few years back, while rummaging around the dusty bookshelves of Shakespeare's bookshop on Paris' left bank on a Sunday afternoon, I was approached by the young male shop assistant with a rather gentrified English accent. "Would you like to come and join us for some tea upstairs" he announced.

I've never knowingly turned down the offer of a cup of tea so I climbed the rickety staircase passing through stacks of second hand books passed the old typewriter and numerous cats until I stumbled upon a small group of people sitting around chatting and sipping tea from chipped porcelain cups.

This was my first experience of the Shakespeare bookshop tea party a Paris Institution that's been going on for many, many years. Everyone is welcome, you'll find tourists, customers from the bookshop and Parisians who turn up to practise their English. It's supposed to take place every Sunday at 4pm but these days George, the nonogenerian owner, is sometimes too tired to hold the tea party so it's best to check at the desk first.

Cafe des Phares Paris

There is an ancient Chinese proverb which goes "talk does not cook rice". Very wise but in these modern times it is possible to purchase pre-prepared cooked rice in many Asian establishments offering a take away service. So, with the time you save you can indulge in more talking.

At the Philo café at Cafe des Phares, 7, Place de la Bastille 75004 Paris every Sunday between 11am and 1pm you can join a debate in French on a different philosophical topic each week.

Even if your French is not great you can still come along and watch the debate unfold. Sometimes, it the arguments get a bit heated and the tempers frayed. The scene is typically French and the place is popular with locals and tourists and tourists alike despite the language barrier.

US Elects its new Leader

Newspapers showing Obama as US President
Originally uploaded by jaimelondonboy.

Today is a day of rejoicing not only in America but in much of the rest of the world too. Goodbye (and good riddens) to George W. Bush. Obama is an extremely popular choice as the new US president. Let's hope he lives up to expectations. This is my favourite quote of the day:

"Dear rest of the world,
We didn't fuck it up.
Signed,
America"

Where to Watch the US Election 2008 in Paris

Peligro Cocodrilos
Originally uploaded by malias.

If Europeans could vote then there would be a landslide victory for Barack Obama in the forthcoming American election. Here in Paris I haven't yet met a single Frenchman who would vote for MacCain. But there is a kind of Irony, at least in France and Germany, in that abroad they support the left wing candidate but in their own countries it's the right wing that got elected (in Nicolas Sarkozy and Angela Merkel respectively).

Anyway Europeans cannot vote but they can take part in the election night parties that are taking place here in Paris. The "official" election night party is at the cinéqua, Bureau des Élections Américaines 02 avenue des Nations Unies 75016 PARIS. You should note however, that this event will set you back 120 Euros.

Elsewhere, if you're looking for more low key and affordable events you could try the all night party at the "Breakfast in America" American diner (rue des Ecoles, Paris 75005).

If you're looking for a more partisan crowd (if that's possible) then you could join the "Obama Campaign Victory Party" at Palais Maillot, 2, Place de La Porte Maillot. 5 Euros entrance.

Wherever you go it's going to be a long night but an historic one.

Americans Register to Vote in Paris

With the US election taking place in just a few weeks, time is running out for Americans to register their vote.

US Citizens are also entitled to vote from abroad. In Paris today tables were set up outside Shakespeare's English language bookshop to register Americans who find themselves outside of their country. Eavesdropping on the conversations of those in the queue it seems that sentiments lay exclusively with the Democrats.

Is that significant? If the election is close will it be Paris wot wins it for Obama?

Cafes San Jose Paris

Here we have one of may favourite cafes in Paris.
It's called Cafés San José 30 rue des Petits Champs, 75001 Paris.

In general I fine the coffee in Paris cafes pretty disappointing. I have often paid up to 3 Euros for, a little cup of caffeinated muddy water. However, Cafés San Jose is a rare exception not only is the coffee first rate but it's cheap too.

An espresso will set you back a mere one Euro with a chocolate thrown in for good measure while a baby cappuccino served in an espresso cup is just 1.20 Euros.

You can also buy beans and ground coffee here as well as a wide selection of teas. As you enter you step back in time to an era when Edith Piaf was singing Non, je ne regrette rien in smoke filled clubs. But don't except a sofa of even a chair to rest your weary backside as this place is standing room only. If you want comfy couches and bucket sized coffee cocktails then head to Starbucks around the (every) corner, if you want a good coffee and a genuine Paris experience then now you know the way to Cafes San Jose.

The Tamils of Paris

Little Jafna Paris
Originally uploaded by malias.

In the 10th arrondissement, between metros Gare de Nord and La Chapelle you will find Paris’ Tamil community which numbers around 40,000 people. This area has mistakenly been referred to as “Little India” but the vast majority of the Asians in the neighbourhood are Tamils from Sri Lanka. “Little Jafna” is the more appropriate name for the area.

Most of the Tamils came to France during the 1980s to escape the civil war raging in Sri Lanka. Many were granted refugee status. However, rules have been tightened since 1991. The neighbourhood is an interesting one to explore. Most of it is situated on and around Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, Paris 75010. If you want to buy a sari, bollywood DVDs (normally sub-titled in English) or souvenirs from the Asian sub-continent then this is the place to head to. It’s also the best place in Paris to get a curry and vegetarians need not be aware since many Tamils being Hindu are themselves vegetarians.

You can also visit the area's Hindu Temple, Sri Manicka Vinayakar, 72 Rue Philippe de Girard paris 75010 open every day between 9:30 am and 8:30 pm. Visitors welcome. And once a year during the festival of Ganesha Chathurthi which falls between the middle of August and the middle of September. The highlight of which is the Chariot procession.

Intolerance and Xenophobia

As I stroll through my neighbourhood in the 11th arrondissment in Paris near to the cemetery at Pere Lachaise, I pass several moslem run shops, and restaurants around Menilmontant, as I wonder further I see a Jewish synagogue and a number of Jewish North African outlets finally in just 15 minutes I arrive at Belleville with its large Chinese population.

I feel blessed that I live large and, despite a number of high-profile cases, a tolerant cosmopolitan society, the very same thing could also be said of my home town of London.

Unfortunately this is not necessarily the case in many other parts of the world. Living in a melting pot like Paris we are somewhat cocooned from an outside world where ignorance and intolerance is rife. On a recent trip to China I found myself in the touristy town of Yangsuo. Along the main drag stalls sold trinkets and other souvenirs and among them were a number of hand painted t-shirt sellers. Mixed along with t-shirts of Mr Bean, David Beckham there were other western "heroes" portrayed such as Osama Bin Laden and Adolf Hitler (see photo).

A recent survey by the Pew organisation as reported in the International Herald Tribune shows the extent of anti-muslim and anti-Jewish sentiment around the world. In Asia "half or more of the Japanese, Indians, Chinese and South Koreans surveyed said they had negative impressions of Muslims. " While negative atitudes towards jews ranged from 32% in India to 55% in China. In Europe "46 percent of the Spanish held negative opinions of Jews, as did 36 percent of Poles and 34 percent of Russians."

Overcoming fear and xenophobia is going to be a challenge and it's a fight that starts on our doorstep.

Journees du Patrimoine Paris

Statue of Female and Sky
Originally uploaded by malias.

This weekend (20th and 21st September 2008) are the journees du patrimoine (National Heritage days) a Europe wide event that offers the chance to visit many national monuments, museums, churches, gardens and important buildings free of charge. In addition a great number of interesting places that are not normally open to the public allow free access on these days only.

If you are in Paris this weekend then you'll have a couple of problems. Firstly you'll be spoilt for choice. The number of interesting places taking part is truly daunting. So chose well. Things that caught my eye include the 19th Century underground hydraulics of the Eiffel Tower and the Elysee Palace and some of the embassies (Russian, Swiss and Polish for example) that are only open on these days.

Second problem is the queues, a friend told me that last year she queued 4 hours to get into one building. This may be exceptional but be aware that you might spend much of these splendid days standing in line.

Ramadan in Paris

Paris has a large muslim population. The exact number is not known because the French census does not ask about religion but it is estimated that in France between 5 - 10% are muslim.

A great many of the immigrants came in the 1960's and 70's to fill jobs at a time of a shortage of labour. But the muslin community in Paris goes back further. The Great Mosque in Paris' 5th arrondissement was built between 1922 and 1926 as thanks to the muslims who fought for France at the battle of Verdun in 1916 in which 28,000 muslim soldiers (mostly Algeriens and Morrocans) were killed.

At the moment there is the fast of ramadan and it's actually a good time to stroll through one of the muslin communitities in Paris. For example walk around the beween Metro Menilmontant and Belleville in the afternoon and it's very lively with many stalls on the streets selling North African ramadan special food for the end of the fast such as dates, ricotta style cheese, halva and much more. Many of the local restaurants do special "ramadan menus" which you can enjoy even if you're not muslim.